The Bad Good Old Days

As the coffee industry pivots towards a sustainable future, the above passage from Uker's book, "All About Coffee”, has made me pause and reflect.  Have we, “followed” and “improved” upon “the best Arabia practices?”  This seems questionable as we continue to aspire to implement the same qualities the original Yemeni coffee industry had,

• Quality: Yemeni’s coffee was and still is highly regarded for its quality

• Liveable Income: Yemen’s coffee economy was driven by the profitability for smallholders

• Climate Safe Agriculture: Yemen is renowned for growing coffee under arid conditions

Leaving one left wondering where these practices went and whether we have truly progressed over the centuries, given that the current set of circumstances suggest otherwise.

At the beginning of the 20th century, when Uker’s wrote his book, this statement may have felt true.  Alas this statement seems to reflect the optimism of the author, rather than the content of historical records – for those interested several historical passages have been included below clearly demonstrating that Yemeni practices were not followed or improved upon.

As coffee production spread beyond Yemen’s boarders, the industry underwent significant changes. Smallholder farms gave way to plantations, reshaping the physical, economic and social landscape of the coffee industry.  These transformations, along with the ethnocentric and political attitudes of some actors, likely obstructed the exchange and implementation of knowledge between different coffee cultures and socioeconomic classes, which would have been crucial to support Uker's assertions.  As coffee spread across the world, the methods of cultivation and production expanded along with the variety of coffee origins.  

I invite you to take a moment to read through quotes from the past.  Do you recognize the parallels with the current state of the coffee industry?  Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below.

“. . . [T]he Coffee of Yemen still keeps the preference, probably because the Europeans do not cultivate theirs in the same manner, and upon such high mountains, where there is so regular a temperature of air as in Yemen.”

A citation from Niebhur’s “Voyage to Arabia”

“It is a general remark in England, and indeed a certain one, that the Coffee imported from America does not answer so well as that of the growth of Arabia . . . but this has been hitherto owing to the want of observation, or knowing the nature of the grain ; mod people being attentive to the quantity of the produce, while the qualities are but seldom considered.”

A citation from Dr. Brown’s “Natural History of Jamaica”

“Let the Coffee be planted in a soil as similar to its natural one as possible . . . The dryer the soil on which the Coffee grows, the smaller is its fruit, and its quality more excellent.

. . . 

When such an excessive load of expenses, and so many difficulties arise to the grower, importer, and of consequence to the consumer of West India Coffee, it is no wonder that the planters give themselves very little concern about its cultivation.  At present there is very little difference in the produce, and consequently in the price ; the high duties are a bar to its use amongst us, the Coffee is in general bad, and the price in proportion.

This discouragement renders them less solicitous about it: bad as it may be produced, it finds consumers abroad, and to vend it with certainty, answers their purpose better than a more attentive cultivation of a commodity clogged with such duties.

Those who know the taste of Mocha Coffee, and are desirous of using our West Indian, soon quit it with disgust. . . Taste is perhaps more the effects of habit than is generally admitted; of this, tobacco is the strongest and first instance that occurs to me : To a person unaccustomed to it, the finest is scarcely tolerable.

If the duties and excise upon Coffee were lessened, the consumption would be increased. Taste would grow more refined; the best would be sought for, and the price would be in proportion ; the present duties are almost prohibitory.  It may be worth one's while to view the effects of these high duties in a political light—I mean in respect to this article.”

A citation from Dr. Fothergill’s Letter to J. Ellis, Esquire, F. R. S. Agent for Dominica

“Several persons in Europe imagine, that a much better kind of Coffee might be gathered in our Islands, than that which is usually brought from thence. There is no doubt of this, and our inhabitants are very sensible of its but the ever- powerful motive of interest prevents them from endeavouring to improve the produce of this plant.

. . .

Experience also teaches them, that trees planted in [rich] soils yield commonly from 12 to 16 ounces of Coffee per plant; in the [bad] soils  they scarcely furnish more than from 6 to 8 ounces ; this makes an immediate difference of one half in the weight. Now in France, England, and all the European markets, the only stated difference in the price of the small well-prepared Coffee, and that which is larger and of the worst kind, is from 15 to 20 per Cent. The inhabitants therefore would necessarily find it their advantage to plant their Coffee-trees in the richest soil; and those persons only will have the small and fine Coffee, who have no other than bad grounds, and have not a sufficient number of Negroes to manure and improve them.

The calculation is easily made : with an equal number of plants double the weight is produced ; and by the difference of price no more is lost than from 15 to 20 per Cent. Interest hath therefore prevented our inhabitants from applying themselves to the culture of that kind of Coffee which is most valued in Europe. To excite a proper emulation among them, the difference of price between the various sorts of Coffee should be as considerable as it is between the several kinds of Sugar.”

“Observation on Coffee, by a learned and experienced Planter at The Grenades, 

communicated to Dr. Fothergill, by Governor Melville.”

“. . . [T]he great labour and time it takes to cure it after the manner of Arabia, and the small price it bears at present, will not as yet permit them to come into it; though I am fully persuaded that the Coffee of this island is full as good, when pulled off the tree, as any in Arabia, was it but cured after the same method; which I doubt not the planters will adopt, should the price of Coffee rise, so as to encourage them in the undertaking.”

“Extract of a Letter from George Scott, Esq. late Lieutenant Governor of Dominica, 

to Dr. Fothergill”

“I am persuaded the West India planter will find, in your publication, many useful hints for improving the quality of his Coffee.

But I must beg leave to remark to you, that it is in vain to think of extending that trade, while the duties, on and after importation, continue so very considerable.

I do not however mean to discourage you.”

“Letter from a Merchant of London to J. Ellis, Esq. F. R, S. Agent for Dominica.”